Do Plant By The Moon

No, I don’t mean that you have to work into the night to have a successful garden. I should have said, “Plant by the phases/cycles of the Moon”. Planting by Moon phases has been an established practice for hundreds of years. Chances are there is something to it. I really don’t know the science behind “Moon planting,” but I can tell you the theory.
There are vegetables that produce crops (the edible portion) above ground. These include anything you harvest without digging – tomatoes, peppers, okra, beans, etc. The theory is that these crops should be planted during the light (waxing) of the Moon, that is from the day that the Moon turns new until it becomes full. Flowers planted from seeds fall into this category. A good way to remember this theory is to think, “the vegetables that receive light should be planted by the light of the Moon (new to full).”
The vegetables that are produced under ground and therefore do not receive sunlight on their surface should be planted during the dark of the Moon, that is, right after the full Moon until the day before the new Moon. This is also called the waning Moon. Flowers planted as bulbs fall into this planting cycle. Remember, it’s dark underground and these crops should be planted during the dark of the Moon (full to new).
You’ll need to consult your calendar to determine the Moon favorable phases. You’ll notice that you have about a two-week window with which to work during each phase or cycle. Watch weather reports to determine the most ideal planting conditions for your window of opportunity. You don’t want to plant if the conditions are poor (cold temperatures, wet soil or a prediction of a late frost). An Old Farmer’s Almanac may even provide the ideal planting days for each garden crop.
I mark these ideal planting times on my planner, but if the conditions are right, I plant. I make an effort to plant by the Moon, but go with gut feeling most of the time. I’m just throwing this out as an established practice. I think that it is such an established tradition that I use it if I feel that it is feasible to fall within the two-week window. Get an opinion from the “old folks” who have been successful gardeners.
As a side note, some old timers say that there is even an ideal Moon phase to set fence posts. Consider carefully what some say about crazy activities and more babies being conceived during the full Moon phase. I’d say by the time the Moon is visible, it is time to relax for the night. A little at a time gets the job done!

catalogs as reference material

Do use your seed catalogs as reference material. A lot of necessary information can be found in a seed/plant catalog. For one thing, they supply color pictures of fruit and vegetables they offer. They provide data on days to maturity, approximate number of seed per packet or plants per offer and some requirements for best yields, such as if some sort of support is required as with some peas, tomatoes and cucumbers. The length of row that can be planted from each packet is also provided. They usually tell which varieties are resistant to certain plant diseases and which do well in cooler weather and which require warm temperatures. They tell if the seeds are treated and for what.
Important information is provided for specific crops. For example there is a code given to indicate the sweetness level of sweet corn. They indicate if tomatoes are determinate (ripening only over a short time, i.e., 3-5 weeks) or indeterminate (ripening all season). Catalogs give the approximate size of each tomato or ear of corn, as well as what to expect from other crops. A lot of them suggest which preserving method is best suited for that particular vegetable.
All this information is meant to sell you the variety that best suits your needs. It is also good for planning. You’ll know which crops mature and complete their growing cycle in time to plant a second crop in time for a harvest. Knowing which crops won’t do well in mid-summer can save time and seeds, not to mention the frustration. It is important to know which are the low growing plants and keep them on the southern side of the higher crops. Once you have made your crop selection, you can record this information on your garden planner while the catalog is still open. With all this information, perhaps they should start charging for seed catalogs!

Composting

Do plan to make compost for your new or existing garden. Composting is the single best thing you can do for your garden soil. It provides enrichment and also gives the soil that desired loamy texture. Completed compost is a complex garden ingredient. However, it is not complicated to make. All it takes is a little time and a few inexpensive or free ingredients. Free materials such as grass clippings and/or leaves and a few shovelfuls of your garden soil are layered with manure and ground limestone and allowed the ferment until the time to be applied to the garden, usually with the spring tilling. Compost can be made in a bin or on an open pile. The bin is neater but requires the expense of lumber or fence to form a cube like structure. The pile is made in the open by stacking the layers in a dome shaped structure. Both work well. The bin is the usual choice of the gardener with a small plot.

Besides the lumber for the bin, the limestone and manure should be your only expense. Some farmers a happy to give away manure if you are willing to haul it. It is also sold in bags at garden supply stores. About four 50 pound bags should be enough for one bin or pile. Three 30 pound bags of ground limestone should do the trick.

A four foot cube makes a nice size. Begin the pile with a six foot diameter and work up to about four feet. Start the bottom layer with a rough material such as corn stalks or straw. The next layer are about one foot each. The thickest part of each layer is the carbon material, leaves, grass clippings, etc. Follow this with a layer of manure (one bag or equal) then a half bag of lime and a few shovelfuls of garden soil. Continue this procedure until you run out of material or room in the bin. Sprinkle each layer with a watering can of water as you go. Now let nature do its work.

If you don’t have the time or space to make your own compost a great source in the Pittsburgh area is AgRecycle.