Do Plant By The Moon

No, I don’t mean that you have to work into the night to have a successful garden. I should have said, “Plant by the phases/cycles of the Moon”. Planting by Moon phases has been an established practice for hundreds of years. Chances are there is something to it. I really don’t know the science behind “Moon planting,” but I can tell you the theory.
There are vegetables that produce crops (the edible portion) above ground. These include anything you harvest without digging – tomatoes, peppers, okra, beans, etc. The theory is that these crops should be planted during the light (waxing) of the Moon, that is from the day that the Moon turns new until it becomes full. Flowers planted from seeds fall into this category. A good way to remember this theory is to think, “the vegetables that receive light should be planted by the light of the Moon (new to full).”
The vegetables that are produced under ground and therefore do not receive sunlight on their surface should be planted during the dark of the Moon, that is, right after the full Moon until the day before the new Moon. This is also called the waning Moon. Flowers planted as bulbs fall into this planting cycle. Remember, it’s dark underground and these crops should be planted during the dark of the Moon (full to new).
You’ll need to consult your calendar to determine the Moon favorable phases. You’ll notice that you have about a two-week window with which to work during each phase or cycle. Watch weather reports to determine the most ideal planting conditions for your window of opportunity. You don’t want to plant if the conditions are poor (cold temperatures, wet soil or a prediction of a late frost). An Old Farmer’s Almanac may even provide the ideal planting days for each garden crop.
I mark these ideal planting times on my planner, but if the conditions are right, I plant. I make an effort to plant by the Moon, but go with gut feeling most of the time. I’m just throwing this out as an established practice. I think that it is such an established tradition that I use it if I feel that it is feasible to fall within the two-week window. Get an opinion from the “old folks” who have been successful gardeners.
As a side note, some old timers say that there is even an ideal Moon phase to set fence posts. Consider carefully what some say about crazy activities and more babies being conceived during the full Moon phase. I’d say by the time the Moon is visible, it is time to relax for the night. A little at a time gets the job done!

catalogs as reference material

Do use your seed catalogs as reference material. A lot of necessary information can be found in a seed/plant catalog. For one thing, they supply color pictures of fruit and vegetables they offer. They provide data on days to maturity, approximate number of seed per packet or plants per offer and some requirements for best yields, such as if some sort of support is required as with some peas, tomatoes and cucumbers. The length of row that can be planted from each packet is also provided. They usually tell which varieties are resistant to certain plant diseases and which do well in cooler weather and which require warm temperatures. They tell if the seeds are treated and for what.
Important information is provided for specific crops. For example there is a code given to indicate the sweetness level of sweet corn. They indicate if tomatoes are determinate (ripening only over a short time, i.e., 3-5 weeks) or indeterminate (ripening all season). Catalogs give the approximate size of each tomato or ear of corn, as well as what to expect from other crops. A lot of them suggest which preserving method is best suited for that particular vegetable.
All this information is meant to sell you the variety that best suits your needs. It is also good for planning. You’ll know which crops mature and complete their growing cycle in time to plant a second crop in time for a harvest. Knowing which crops won’t do well in mid-summer can save time and seeds, not to mention the frustration. It is important to know which are the low growing plants and keep them on the southern side of the higher crops. Once you have made your crop selection, you can record this information on your garden planner while the catalog is still open. With all this information, perhaps they should start charging for seed catalogs!

Composting

Do plan to make compost for your new or existing garden. Composting is the single best thing you can do for your garden soil. It provides enrichment and also gives the soil that desired loamy texture. Completed compost is a complex garden ingredient. However, it is not complicated to make. All it takes is a little time and a few inexpensive or free ingredients. Free materials such as grass clippings and/or leaves and a few shovelfuls of your garden soil are layered with manure and ground limestone and allowed the ferment until the time to be applied to the garden, usually with the spring tilling. Compost can be made in a bin or on an open pile. The bin is neater but requires the expense of lumber or fence to form a cube like structure. The pile is made in the open by stacking the layers in a dome shaped structure. Both work well. The bin is the usual choice of the gardener with a small plot.

Besides the lumber for the bin, the limestone and manure should be your only expense. Some farmers a happy to give away manure if you are willing to haul it. It is also sold in bags at garden supply stores. About four 50 pound bags should be enough for one bin or pile. Three 30 pound bags of ground limestone should do the trick.

A four foot cube makes a nice size. Begin the pile with a six foot diameter and work up to about four feet. Start the bottom layer with a rough material such as corn stalks or straw. The next layer are about one foot each. The thickest part of each layer is the carbon material, leaves, grass clippings, etc. Follow this with a layer of manure (one bag or equal) then a half bag of lime and a few shovelfuls of garden soil. Continue this procedure until you run out of material or room in the bin. Sprinkle each layer with a watering can of water as you go. Now let nature do its work.

If you don’t have the time or space to make your own compost a great source in the Pittsburgh area is AgRecycle.

canning (tomatoes)

Hot packing is our method of processing tomatoes (stewed, sauce and juice). Stewing involves skinning the tomatoes before cooking. We start water boiling in the canner. We wash the tomatoes and place then in the laundry tub spread evenly. Next the boiling water is poured over the tomatoes and allowed to set until the skins start splitting. In the meantime clean jars are places in the boiling water bath canner covered with an inch of water. By now the tomatoes are ready to peel. We “pull the plug” to let out the hot water and run cold water over them (easier to handle than hot).
The tomatoes are peeled and cut into quarters into a saucepan to cook. Once the tomatoes and the jars come to a boil, we begin filling the jars. As each jar is filled (leaving ½ inch head space) we wipe the rim, dip the lid with ring attached into the boiling jar water to soften the rubber ring on the lid. Now we apply the lid and tighten firmly. We place the jar back into the boiling water bath and repeat the process, using all the jars and/or tomatoes. Processing time starts when the last jar of tomatoes is in the boiling water. We use quarts so processing takes 45 minutes (35 for pints).
We remove the jars and place on a towel to cool. DO NOT retighten lids. By the time we are done cleaning up the jars are usually sealed. If they aren’t sealed by this time, we check them again in an hour. Any that aren’t sealed by then (very rare) are used within a few days. We then recheck the jar for defects. It’s easy to miss a small chip in the rim, but important to make your best effort. Naturally, we use only recommended canning jars.

Canning Tips

Enjoying preserved food from your home garden during the cold winter months is one of many delights of growing your own vegetables. The three main methods of preserving your surplus crops are by drying, canning and freezing.
Canning is probably the most used method of preserving. More vegetables taste better canned than dried. Refrigerator freezer compartments are too small to hold the regular frozen items and the garden surplus. This means the added expense of a separate freezer. Well worth it if your garden is big enough to warrant the expense. Not so good if it is running only half full in the fall and almost empty by spring.
Canning also has some disadvantages, especially the first year. Besides the initial cost of canning jars, there is also a cost of canning supplies. These supplies include the two types of canners. The boiling water bath canner is used to preserve the high acid food such as tomatoes and sauerkraut. It can also be used for certain kinds of pickles. The pressure canner is used for all other vegetables.
A good canning book, such as the Ball Blue Book of Preserving is a must. They provide all the details to make your canning a success. Make sure you don’t cut corners or deviate for the instructions. A large cooking pot is needed for “hot packing.” This method involves precooking the food for a short period prier to packing into the jars. Tomatoes are usually hot packed. “Cold packing” means you pack the food raw and adding water, vinegar water or juice before processing. Green beans stay firmer if cold packed.
Lids are an every year purchase. Rings can be reused. In fact, rings can be removed after the lids are sealed and the jars are cooled to room temperature. You will need the tool to remove the hot jars after processing, measuring spoons and cups, a jar funnel, tongs, Various spoons for stirring and transporting the food to the jars, especially during hot packing. These are all easy to find in a variety of stores.

Drying (parsley)

We dry our parsley in a dehydratorIt is about as large is a large soup pot and has seven interstacking trays. It gives off very little heat so it can be used about anywhere. It’s the kitchen for us. However, we do place a pizza pan under it – just in case. Wouldn’t want to discolor the countertop.
After harvesting the parsley, we trim off as much of the stalk as we can without spending a lot of time. Next we arrange the leaves around one tray evenly in thin layers.
Then do the same with the other six trays or until there are no more parsley leaves. The third step is to stack the seven trays. These are placed on the base of the dehydrator. The lid is then placed on the top tray and the dehydrator plugged into the power source.
After a twenty-four hour period, remove the lid and place it upside down. Remove the top tray and place it on the lid. Place the other six trays on top of what was the top tray (on the lid) as they are currently arranged, i.e., what was the top tray is now the bottom tray. What was the bottom tray is now one above the bottom. Replace the stacked trays on the base as before.
Continue this process for seven days. The parsley should be dry enough for storage. Test it by rubbing a few leaves between your palms. If it crumbles nicely, you can store it in a jar or freezer bag. If it isn’t as dry as you think it should be, dry it a few more days. Change the order of the racks more frequently. We like to use an empty Parmesan cheese container for storage and cooking use.
Parsley can also be dried in the oven. Convection ovens do the best job. A cookie sheet is ideal for drying. Place this on a rack in the middle of the over. Leave the door open a little – as in broiling. The oven temperature is set at your lowest setting - about 175 degrees. Again, spread evenly in thin layers. You’ll need to check for dryness daily. Crumble a few leaves between your fingers and thumb. Store when it is dry enough. Really dry is the key. You don’t want it molding in the storage container.
We crumble the dried leave onto a newspaper. Fold the newspaper in half and pour the crumbled leaves into your container. Neat and quick!
Dried parsley should last until your next crop in late spring. Good in soup and sauces. Let your imagination rule.

Let’s talk about the basics of home canning next time.

preserving the fruits of your labor

Winter is a real good time to enjoy the fruit of your garden work. The surplus from your crops taste mighty good while others are settling for “store bought.” Also think of the money you are saving.
Excess crop supplies are preserved by three main methods for home gardeners. These include drying, canning and freezing. The method you choose depends on individual preferance. However, some crops are more suited to one method over the others. Parsley is an ideal crop for drying. Tomatoes can well. Corn keeps its flavor well when frozen. Experimentation will be your key to choice.